When working with students in a mentoring role I observe that the most basic of all pattern markings is so often forgotten or ignored by students. Yet when these basic pattern markings are forgotten they have a snowball effect on student’s garment construction. It’s not only the patterns that are inadequate, but the construction process is also affected.
What I’m talking about are notches (one notch to indicate the front of garment and two notches to indicate the back) and matchpoints. In clothing construction the pattern markings are like a road map—they are there for a reason—they give direction on how to stitch the garment together.
I want to encourage students to make sure these important pattern markings are marked on your patterns, then snipped in the fabric (⅛” length). Notice the notches that are placed in the shirt pattern in the sketch. When seams are stitched then bring the notches together as they indicate which fabric pieces go together. Notches also indicate the width of the seam and hem allowances. Matchpoints indicate two points that need to come together in clothing construction. The pocket below is an example of marking two matchpoints for the pocket placement.
Without these important pattern markings garment parts can be stitched that don’t belong together. The consequence of this is time wasted and a lot of seam ripping which weakens the fabric. Another consequence of not having notches can be seams stretched to fit together and this can throw the garment out of alignment and affects how the garment fits on the body.
So snip your notches, mark your matchpoints and then your garment construction will be a smoother process and a quality garment can be produced!
- Fundamental Pattern and Construction Tip
- By: Julie Cole - Adjunct Faculty Harper College; Tutor, International Academy of Design & Technology, Chicago
- Wednesday, Apr 30, 2008
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