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  • Bandhej - One of a kind Tie-Dyed Fabric
  • By: Purwa Garg - Faculty International Academy of Design & Technology, Chicago
Bandhej - One of a kind Tie-Dyed Fabric

Tie-Dye is reported to be originated in different countries at different times. Its origin varies based on the techniques that were used to get a certain effect. Historical evidences show that this wonderful way of coloring fabrics was used in India more than 5000 years ago. These evidences are found in Indian folk songs, one example is as follows:

HAS-HAS RADHIKA PUCHDI,
JI CHIRA KITHON RNAGAYA –
PHAGUN MAHINE DIYAN HOLIYAN,
SAKHIAN RANG BARSAYA –


Translation:
Radha asks Krishna,
From where did you get your scarf dyed in so many different colors –
Krishna says – It is the festival of spring and holi,
That my friends sprinkled the colors of happiness on my scarf and mind –


Even in India tie-dyeing is done using different techniques and colors. Originally, it was done on light weight cotton fabrics using direct or fiber reactive dyes. Now, different fabrics are used for which fiber content can be a blend or 100% cotton, rayon, silk or polyester.

I have found myself indulged into tie-dyeing silk fabrics using fiber reactive dyes. Most interesting fact: dyeing silk with fiber reactive dyes do not give a predictable shade to silk. But with a little practice and experience, you can make a marvelous one-of-a-kind tie-dyed piece.

Materials:
1. Lightweight silk fabric (chiffon, crepe, georgette, organza or china silk).
2. Fiber reactive dye (carefully read instructions on the package to know the amount of dyes to use for a desired color – remember that there will be a shift in shade when dyeing silk fabrics with fiber reactive dyes).
3. White vinegar (1/4 cup per one yard of fabric).
4. Nylon/cotton cord (thicker cords tie fabrics quickly).
5. Pan that can be heated on the stove (large enough to dye a single length of fabric).
6. Bucket or other container (large enough for rinsing dyed fabric).

Method:
1. Tie fabric to get desired design. (For quicker tying make single folds, multiple folds or pleats to get repeated design. You can also gather fabric and tie around it for random design.)
2. Wet fabric and squeeze all excess water leaving fabric damp not wet.
3. Heat enough water in pan to soak the fabric.
4. Let water in the pan to boil.
5. Add white vinegar.
6. Dilute dyes in cold water and add to boiling water. (If you are using powder dye, mix with cold water to get paste like consistency. Liquid dye can be added to boiling water directly.)
7. Bring to boil again, stirring constantly.
8. Add silk fabric to this dye solution and simmer for 10 – 15 minutes, stir constantly and flip fabric several times to avoid excess heat application on one side of the fabric. (You can keep checking to get desired shade. Remember that a wet fabric appears darker than dry fabric.)
9. Remove from pan and place in bucket. Let it cool down to room temperature.
10. Rinse in warm water and then cold water until dyed fabric stops bleeding.
11. Let it air dry.
12. Untie and surprise yourself to see nice and colorful results. (You can also dye fabric in different colors starting with lightest color first and darkest color last.)

Enjoy!

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